The Times of Israel

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On the northern edge of Jerusalem, just inside the security wall and overshadowed by apartment buildings in the Kafr Aqab neighborhood, the once rather grand Jerusalem Airport has been gradually fading into rubble since the last planes took off and landed twenty years ago.

Prime minister Menachem Begin (center), defense minister Ezer Weizmann (second right) and other Israeli officials return to Atarot Airport from talks in Egypt with president Anwar Sadat, 12/7/1978 (Eliyahu Hershkowitz)

As revelatory research by the Jerusalem academic and tour guide Dr. Eldad Brin published earlier this year has established, the airport, also known as Atarot Airport and Qalandiya Airport, was a steadily growing hub of activity from 1949 to 1967, when Jordan was the occupying power.

At its height in the mid-1960s, about 100,000 passengers flew in and out annually, with flights shuttling the Arab elites to and from some 15 destinations as far afield as Rome, Beirut, Baghdad, Kuwait, Doha, Jeddah and Cairo. Grand hotels were built in East Jerusalem to accommodate the high-flying visitors.

Peter O’Toole and Omar Sharif flew back and forth when filming scenes for “Lawrence of Arabia” in the Jordanian desert in the early 1960s. Today’s Royal Jordanian Airlines took shape here, with the kingdom’s Jerusalem Airport handling twice as many passengers as Jordan’s only other international airport, in Amman.

Peter O’Toole and Omar Sharif in “Lawrence of Arabia” (Screenshot)

King Hussein, himself a pilot, availed himself of its services, as seen in photographs at a captivating exhibition, “Gateway to the World,” researched by Brin and currently on public display at Jerusalem’s Albright Institute.

US secretary of state John F. Dulles used it on an official trip in May 1953, Brin records. British Airways’ predecessor BOAC reportedly considered opening a London-Jerusalem route.

Pilgrims and other travelers arriving at Jerusalem Airport in the 1960s (Dr. Mohammed Al-Qutob Family Archive / From the exhibition “Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967”)

Pope Paul VI initially intended to land here on his 1964 visit to the Holy Land, but his Boeing was too hefty for the shortish, narrow runway.

Nonetheless, his visit prompted a surge in Christian pilgrimages, which culminated in an Italian airline bringing several planeloads of visitors for Christmas 1967 — by when, of course, Israel had captured the area from Jordan in the Six Day War.

King Hussein of Jordan and his bodyguard (right), together with Dr. Mohammed Al-Qutob (second left) and a member of his team, at Jerusalem Airport in the 1960s (Dr. Mohammed Al-Qutob Family Archive / From the exhibition “Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967”)

An airport in isolation

Expanding the borders of municipal Jerusalem and incorporating Atarot as part of its sovereign capital, Israel attempted to maintain the airport’s international functioning — in part, as the Jordanians had done, as ostensible proof of the legitimacy of its presence. But it could not replicate Jordan’s success.

While Arab nations overwhelmingly did not recognize Jordan’s 1948 occupation and 1950 annexation of East Jerusalem and the West Bank, they did allow many of their airlines to use Jerusalem Airport (and at least nine Western airlines were represented by tourism agencies in Jordanian East Jerusalem), Brin found. There was no such tolerance for Israeli control.

Air Jordan stewardesses and crew in a 1950s photo (Dr. Mohammed Al-Qutob Family Archive / From the exhibition “Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967”)

All the Arab airline flights inevitably halted. Pan Am considered opening a route, but was barred from doing so by the US government.

El Al tried to make the airport work for international flights, even attempting a ruse whereby arrivals would briefly kiss the tarmac at Lod Airport outside Tel Aviv before flying on to Jerusalem under a different flight number, Brin says. But these were plainly international flights to Jerusalem, and even closely allied countries, wary of granting any perceived legitimacy to Israel regarding the unresolved fate of Jerusalem, refused to have anything to do with the charade.

Instead, Atarot served a domestic Israeli clientele — with flights to Haifa and Mahanayim in the north, then-Israeli-held Sinai, and hops to Tel Aviv.

Prime minister Menachem Begin used Atarot, memorably, when flying home from peace talks with Anwar Sadat in Egypt in 1978. Cloud-seeding flights took off here; private firms offered romantic flights in the skies of JerusalemBut when the Second Intifada erupted in 2000, Atarot became far too dangerous to use and it was shut down altogether. According to Benjamin Shafran, a Jerusalem educator and Atarot enthusiast, the airport came under direct fire.

Kafr Aqab, a Palestinian village Israel had formally incorporated into Jerusalem precisely because it wanted to control a neighborhood so close to the airport, had greatly expanded, including upwards with its high-rises, and become increasingly lawless — an untenable combination for planes taking off and landing next door.

Atarot airport terminal 2021 (Arik Shraga, from the exhibition “Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967”)

Atarot abandoned

The evidence of its high-flying past, and its abrupt grounding, is all too sadly plain to see at Atarot today — including sandbags and gun emplacements from 20 years ago on the upper levels of the terminal building facing Kafr Aqab.

The site is now largely used as a depot for buses plying the East Jerusalem-Ramallah route; they drive along a short section of what was once the runway before parking in neat rows in front of what was formerly the terminal.

Atarot airport entrance 2021 (Arik Shraga, from the exhibition “Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967”)

The terminal building rises tall, decaying and unloved — smashed windows and sandbags on its higher floors.

The abandoned terminal building of Jerusalem Airport at Atarot, November 2021. (David Horovitz / Times of Israel)

The Jerusalem stone main entrance is as golden as when its last passengers passed through it, but all around is rubble and debris.

At ground level, you can see the belts where baggage was conveyed; what looks like a former ticket counter; offices; the remains of an exhibition on the airport’s past that was held here in 1998.

Up a floor via a once-elegant spiral staircase in the heart of the building, you can enter a control room, with some dusty IDF paperwork strewn on the floor.

The control room of the abandoned terminal building of Jerusalem Airport at Atarot, November 2021. (David Horovitz / Times of Israel)

Buildings nearby include an aircraft hangar and the shell of what looks like the fire service building.

Also nearby, rising from amid the weeds, is a metal “airstair” used by the boarding passengers of yester-decades — now a rusting stairway to nowhere, or to heaven if you prefer.

An “airstair” to nowhere rises from the weeds outside the abandoned terminal building of Jerusalem Airport at Atarot, November 2021. (David Horovitz / Times of Israel)

As this writer surveyed the sorry scene a few days ago, a Border Police vehicle pulled up, and two officers asked what I was doing here. Although the Atarot Industrial Zone immediately to the south is widely used, apparently the ex-airport is supposed to be a closed area — it does lie, after all, directly adjacent to the security barrier and immediately below those Kafr Aqab high-rises. Hence the frequent Border Police patrols.

Buses parked at what was once Jerusalem Airport at Atarot; in the background, the high-rises of the Kafr Aqab neighborhood — formally part of Jerusalem but outside the security barrier, November 2021. (David Horovitz / Times of Israel)

Rising anew?

However unpromising its location in the current political reality, however, wedged between Kafr Aqab to the north, A-Ram to the east, and the industrial zone and the Kuwaiti-built “airport neighborhood” of lavish Arab homes to the south, the saga of Atarot airport is not yet over. Quite the reverse. And no, we have not reached the utopian era in which a glorious new airport is to rise from the debris to serve all of the region’s peacefully traveling peoples.

On December 6, rather, a Jerusalem district planning committee is to discuss advancing plans for a 6,000-9,000-home neighborhood to be built here. According to Shafran, a longtime supporter of the building plan, most of the housing is earmarked for ultra-Orthodox residents, and some — “perhaps 1,000 units; the number is not finalized,” he says — is intended for Arabs. The area is mostly state land, but some is privately owned, by Jews and by Arabs.

The proposal also envisages a joint Jewish-Arab commercial area, in the part of the site closest to the security barrier. The thinking is that if the development provides employment for local Palestinians — some 2,300 of whom already work at the nearby Atarot industrial zone, with thousands of additional permits soon to be issued — and includes Arab housing, this might alleviate some of the security risks of residential building at the very edge of the city.

It wouldn’t be the first Israeli neighborhood directly abutting the security barrier.

A visualization of the proposed new residential neighborhood at the site of the abandoned Atarot Airport, with the main highway following the route of the runway, and (circled) the envisaged retention of a restored, repurposed terminal building (Courtesy)

The approval process, including provision for objections, is likely to be protracted. Kafr Aqab was specified in the Trump “Peace to Prosperity” plan as one of the areas to be included in the “sovereign capital of the State of Palestine.” The European Union has already voiced its objections to the plan, in the context of its wider opposition to the coalition’s latest settlement expansion announcements. The plan is backed by much of the Jerusalem city council, notably including would-be mayor Ofer Berkovich, and bitterly opposed by the council’s Meretz representatives and by Peace Now, who see it severing the West Bank from East Jerusalem and thus further dooming prospects of a viable Palestinian state.

It will likely be 2-3 years before tractors could break ground, in the assessment of Shafran, who praises the potential development as a case of “historical justice.” Jews lived in this area between 1912 and 1948, he notes; among the early residents of Moshav Atarot, indeed, was future prime minister Levi Eshkol. It was a focus of heavy fighting during the War of Independence, resisting the Jordanian Arab Legion until the Haganah ordered its evacuation, after which it was looted and burned by the Jordanian forces, and then repurposed for the Hashemites’ airport.

A view of Kafr Aqab and the security barrier, from the runway at the abandoned Atarot Airport (Yonatan Sindel/Flash90)

Shafran notes that the idea of housing for the ultra-Orthodox here is widely backed by secular advocates, who hope it will relieve some of the pressure in more central Jerusalem areas, and by most ultra-Orthodox leaders, though some oppose it, in so awkward a location, as a potential ghetto.

The terminal building is listed for preservation, and therefore will not be destroyed. Rumors that it could be converted into a yeshiva are dismissed by Shafran, who expects it will become a hotel, or possibly a museum.

If so, it would have quite the story to tell.

(“Gateway to the World: Jerusalem Airport 1948-1967,” curated by Natalia Kopelyanskaya, now extended through December 6, is at Jerusalem’s W.F. Albright Institute of Archaeological Research, organized by the Friedrich Naumann Foundation.)


STARTING SOON: Streetwise Hebrew live session

Don’t miss TODAY at 11am Eastern our next Streetwise Hebrew live session with host Guy Sharett, exclusive to the ToI Community (link below).

The last live session was a great experience for everyone involved, as Guy is an amazing teacher – even on Zoom. Said P.H. from Montana: “This was so much fun! I love Guy’s approach to Hebrew.”

💪 For November, we’re learning modern Hebrew phrases related to strength and power. The holiday of Hanukkah is approaching, and just as the small Jewish army tackled and overcame the stronger, more powerful Greek army, so we’re tackling and overcoming these new Hebrew terms.

The live discussion with Guy is today, Wednesday, November 24 at 11:00 am Eastern (6:00 pm Israel) time.

Photo Credit, top left: Tomer Neuberg/Flash90, Zipa Kempinsky, Sharon Perry/Flash90, Flash90

If you’ve already listened to the four audio classes for this month, you’re ready to go!

If you haven’t yet listened to the classes, you should try to do so ahead of the live session:

Click HERE to listen to the audio classes

Ahead of the session, if you have questions to ask Guy about the classes or want to discuss something with other members of the Community, there are two ways you can do so: post your question(s) on the ToI Community Facebook page, or send it to us through this Google form.

Today’s live session with Guy on Zoom — details:

TODAY: Wednesday, November 24, 2021
11:00 am Eastern
4:00 pm UK
6:00 pm Israel

*** A recording of the session will be available on the Community page the next day ***

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We hope to see you today at the live session!


🎧  Times Will Tell podcast preview: This Arab and Jew talk straight, in raps and in person

This week on Times Will Tell we speak to Samekh Zakout and Uriya Rosenman, the Arab rapper and Israeli educator who banded together in the last year to put their frustrations, thoughts and ideas into two raps so far, the first of which, “Bo Nedaber Dugri,” (Let’s Talk Straight), a six-minute, 28-second rap, went viral when released in May.

They had been working together for months, but the impetus for releasing the first rap in May were the riots that raged through Israel’s mixed cities.

Now the two have released their second rap, “Munfas,” and are on the road in Israel, speaking to Arabs and Jews, sometimes together, about what this country needs in order to find different solutions for future generations.

As always, your ToI Community membership gives you early access to Times Will Tell:

Listen to Times Will Tell

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Be well,

David Horovitz
Founding Editor, The Times of Israel

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