Road-trip eats: It’s a gas

It was a Tuesday morning and I needed a coffee. The pickings along Highway 444, the narrow, often two-lane stretch of road along the towns of Shoham, Elad, and Rosh Ha’ayin were slim, somewhat limited, really. There were the one-man vans, and stands offering bourekas, shakshuka sandwiches, and Turkish coffee. There was the option of stopping in at one of the towns, but that meant the possibility of, at best, a local cafe with questionable cappuccinos and at worst, a branch of Cafe-Cafe.

And then, off in the distance, I spotted the alluring green-and-yellow signage of the Kibbutz Einat gas station, one I’d frequented in the past, with the more-than-passable Si Espresso cafe (coffee is good, breakfasts are just so-so), a full-fledged supermarket featuring all kinds of offbeat items not found everywhere, and even a car wash, always good during the dusty summer. (There’s also an artisanal bakery and Asian food shack, down in the industrial zone at the entrance to the kibbutz.) The decision was made.

Gas stations, as I’m sure I don’t have to tell you, are the basis, the brick-and-mortar anchor of many fine eateries in Israel. From north to south, even within the narrow strait of east to west, they offer some of the best coffees, stuffed grape leaves, nori sushi rolls, American-style pancakes, and grilled sandwiches in the land. Everyone has their favorites, which is to be expected. This top five list was carefully culled after years of gas station stops, indulging in the coffees, danishes, sushi rolls, and sandwiches that have made their mark on legions of drivers.

1) Starting from the north, there’s nary a drive that doesn’t take one through Tzomet Golani, the now-massive traffic intersection just outside Afula. The mainstay of this strip is Abu Nimr, a Middle Eastern grill joint offering the usual array of grilled meats, fresh and pickled salads joined by fries and rice, but with the addition of a singular plate of hummus that satisfies even the pickiest chickpea palate. Abu Nimr, Paz gas station just north of the Golani junction, near Afula, not kosher.

If you’re traveling by way of Kiryat Tivon, along Route 75, stop at Al Adawi, another Middle Eastern eatery with some unusual meat stews and the addition of alternative vegetarian options, including truly spectacular mejadara (rice with lentils and crispy, sauteed onions) and rice-stuffed cabbage leaves and grape leaves. Adawi Brothers, Paz gas station, not kosher.

2) Heading south, it can always be time for dinner or lunch, particularly if you’re about to pass Agenda, the kosher sushi bar located at the Paz gas station, just at the entrance to Caesarea. Considered by many to be one of the country’s best sushi places, notable for its extremely fresh fish and expertly handled hand rolls, it’s always full and offers cafe food options for the sushi-averse. It’s not cheap, but offers a good option when you’re tired of pasta, salads, and sandwiches. Agenda, Paz gas station, Caesarea interchange, kosher.

3) There’s a number of tales about which Pancake House along the coastal highway is the original of the three, and it’s safe to say that everyone has their favorite. I’ve always been partial to the Pancake House at M-HaDerech, the strip mall stop outside Hofit, one of the beach towns situated between Netanya and Caesarea, but that could be because of its red vinyl swivel chairs, which are just perfect when entertaining small children at breakfast. Pancake House, M-Haderech, Road 2 / Coastal Highway, not kosher.

Others are loyal to The Original Pancake House just south of Herzliya, and open 24/7. Hasira Interchange, Paz gas station, not kosher. 

4) Wherever you may be traveling, make your way to the Sonol gas station at the Shilat Junction on Route 443, surely the culinary crossroads of any trip. With Coffee 443, Grill 443, and Memphis on hand, there are truly snack options for any time of day. This gas station complex, which also includes a tire shop — good service there as well — has Coffee 443 at one end, a fairly bucolic corner for a gas station cafe, with wooden swings and tables set on AstroTurf for those who choose to sit over their coffee and danish. Behind the gas station store — which also has coffee and packaged snacks — sits Grill 443, your usual grilled meat stop with skewers and sides, albeit fresh and very tasty, and Memphis, which has a dairy and meat side for its panini sandwiches. Choose cheese, sauce and vegetables if you want the dairy version, or sliced meats and sauce for the meat side, with a side of cabbage slaw. Sonol gas station, Shilat junction, Route 443, all kosher.

5) It was my father who initially introduced me to Ahavat Hayam, a fish restaurant located in the Paz gas station across from Jerusalem’s Sacher Park. While we were charmed by the idea of a restaurant at a gas station, it was the fresh salads, an array of more than a dozen presented at the start of every meal, and the selection of fish that kept us coming back for years. This is basically a steakiya, but with fish standing in for the meat. With a nautical theme that’s pretty comical when you consider the location, this one’s a keeper. Ahavat Hayam, Paz gas station across from Sacher Park, Ben Tzvi Boulevard, Jerusalem, kosher.