Food for thought

The sweet, rosy blush of the mango

Make a savory chutney or delectably frothy whipped cream dessert with this summer treat

Phyllis Glazer is an American-born food journalist based in Tel Aviv, Israel. She is the author of several cookbooks that have been published in Hebrew, German, and Italian, and appears frequently on television and radio in Israel.

The rosy-orbed mango, great for chutneys or sweet desserts (photo credit: Hedwig Storch/CC-BY-SA-3.0)
The rosy-orbed mango, great for chutneys or sweet desserts (photo credit: Hedwig Storch/CC-BY-SA-3.0)

It’s finally mango season, and I, for one, am delighted. I finally get to make this fabulously easy chutney that reminds me of Major Grey’s — that legendary product produced by Crosse & Blackwell, and reputed to have been created by a British Army officer in India during the height of the British Empire — an exotic condiment that my oldest sister introduced me to when I was a child. (Mangoes also bring out my absolutely sinful, mango-with-whipped-cream-and-brown sugar dessert.)

In India, the birthplace of the mango, the flowers, leaves and even seeds of the precious mango tree are used in Ayurvedic treatments. Ripe mango is considered a source of energy, while unripe mango cools the body and is astringent (green mango salads are also delicious). Rich in bioflavonoids, and a super-rich source of vitamin A (3894 units in only 100 grams), mangoes help strengthen the immune system.

This quick version of mango chutney was invented by Indian cook Madhur Jaffrey nearly 40 years ago, and it’s not only good — it’s good for you: In addition to all the above-mentioned mango attributes, cumin and fennel seeds help with digestion, and the perky little black mustard seeds act as a powerful anti-inflammatory. Serve it with chicken, fish, cooked vegetables and anything curry.

Quick Mango Chutney (makes two 8-ounce (250 gram) jars)

  • 1 large mango (about ½ kilo or 1 pound)
  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • dash salt
  • ⅓ cup water
  • ¼ cup raisins
  • ¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 2 teaspoons cornstarch
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 2 teaspoons canola or sesame oil
  • ½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
  1. Peel the mango and cut it into large chunks. Place in a pot with the ground cumin, black pepper, salt, water and raisins. Bruise the fennel seeds by pressing down on them with the side of a chef’s knife or with a mallet, and add to the pot. Bring to a boil, lower heat and cook uncovered for five minutes.
  2. Mix cornstarch and water until smooth and add to the pot. Continue cooking until the mixture thickens, about three minutes. Remove from heat.
  3. Place the mustard seeds in a frying pan and cook over low heat until they pop (about 2-3 minutes), stirring frequently. Remove from heat and add to the chutney with the oil.
  4. Bring to room temperature, before transferring to sterilized jars. Stores in the refrigerator for up to one month, or in the freezer for up to three months.

Here’s an idea: Double or triple the recipe and pack in small jars to give as gifts.

P.S. How could I leave you without a word about my sinful mango dessert?! Here’s how to do it: Prepare a thickish layer of peeled-and-sliced mango and place in the bottom of a Pyrex baking dish. Top with whipped cream (whip up a 250 gram box of cream) in an equal layer. Freeze. Before serving, heat the oven’s broiler to the highest temperature possible. Remove the frozen mango-and-whipped cream layers from the freezer, and cover with just under a centimeter of packed brown sugar. Wait 10 minutes, then place under the broiler and broil until the sugar bubbles and caramelizes, just a minute or two. The result — a hot/cold dessert of frozen mango, semi-frozen whipped cream, and crinkly caramelized brown sugar.

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