Craving pastries that won’t flake out? Head for the (Jerusalem) Hills
A selection of bakeries outside the capital offer a moment of peace and delectable baked pleasures
Jessica Steinberg, The Times of Israel's culture and lifestyles editor, covers the Sabra scene from south to north and back to the center
Over the last year of war and rocket fire, one of the few places in Israel that has largely remained outside the line of fire has been Jerusalem and its surrounding hill country. That’s one reason diners seem to keep packing bakeries and eateries in the area. Another reason: flaky, crispy, melt-in-your-mouth pastries, both savory and sweet.
“People keep on coming to us because it’s still quiet here,” said Nadav Elbaz, head chef of Derech HaGefen, Mashav Food Trucks, Hamigdal and Cafè Shalva, all part of the Harim group which owns several eateries in the verdant Jerusalem Hills area. “People aren’t flying abroad as much and they can’t go to the north, so it’s not that surprising that they come to the Jerusalem hills.”
Elbaz and his co-owners were sure there would be a decline in customers during the last 12 months, but they have been flocking to the group’s various dining options in Kiryat Anavim, including the Kerem Wine Bar in its own cozy space just underneath Harim Bakery and Pop Up Cafe just up the road.
Harim’s expansive bakery-cafe in Kiryat Anavim, a bedroom community on the outskirts of Abu Ghosh west of Jerusalem, offers patrons a variety of salads and sandwiches from a tempting vitrine. Selections behind the glass include a brioche stuffed with chive-topped scrambled eggs, a salad studded with roasted beets and goat cheese, and for dessert, square tarts sprinkled with crushed pecans and hazelnuts, a citrus flan or chocolate brioche tower, all inventions of pastry chef Oran Hayo.
Customers can also pick up local wines, condiments, fresh-pressed juices or bouquets from the carefully curated counters in the spacious storefront.
The line is always long, but staff walk around taking orders on very busy days. Customers can choose a table and pick up their trays of treats once their name is called.
The group recently opened a Harim outlet in the Tower of David Museum, with a smaller menu from its usual bakery options and an upstairs balcony overlooking the city. Pop Up Cafe is temporarily closed as it swaps fish and pasta dishes for a bistro meat menu that will open in another two months.
Harim Bakery (kosher) is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day except Saturday.
Night and day
While heading in or out of Kiryat Anavim, stop in at Noa Bakery, another pilgrimage destination for carb-lovers that operates in the daytime as a bakery and cafe and in the evening as a casual bistro, presided over by chef Eldad Shmueli.
Shmueli is well-known for his artisanal bread baked in Noa’s built-in, wood-burning oven along with pizzas and khachapuri, as well as the smoked trout, roasted lamb and vegetables served in the evening hours.
In the mornings and afternoons, diners sink their teeth into Noa’s tomato and anchovy pizzas, flaky pastry squares spread with pistachio cream and crushed nuts or a hunk of local cheese placed on one of Shmueli’s crusty breads.
There are fresh salads and sandwiches as well, all ordered at the front counter and eaten in the spacious dining room or outdoor deck.
At dinnertime, tables are set and diners can order from the menu that includes fish, meat and poultry. Be sure to order the fish in white wine and butter served with pieces of charred challah and roasted vegetables — that challah comes in handy for soaking up all the lovely sauce at the end.
Noa (not kosher,) is open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday – Thursday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday; dinner served 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Monday to Thursday.
A side of history
It’s also worth stopping at Alloro in the charming yard of the historic Yellin House, built in 1890 as a private residence and later renovated by the Society for Preservation of Israel Heritage Sites as a visitors center telling the story of the pioneering effort in the former farming village.
This cafe is smaller and more intimate than its neighbors, owned by Orli Cohen Alloro and Ariel Levy, along with pastry chef Hufit Shoham, Levy’s sister.
Most of the seating is set on the comfortable flagstone patio, surrounded by a verdant orchard and vineyard.
Customers order at the inside counter from a menu including sandwiches named Steinberg, Broza, Yehoshua and Sarah, after the pioneering settlers of Motza. The offerings are piled on artisanal bread, zhuzhed up with homemade condiments, including spicy schug or a sharp scallion jam.
For dessert, there are the delectable pastries created by Shoham, offerings are slightly larger and more casually crafted than the crisp corners and crimping familiar from Harim, but they’re equally delectable and topped with seasonal fruits or savory with herbs and cheeses.
Alloro (no kosher certificate, dairy menu, not open on Shabbat) is open 8-3 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, until 2 p.m. Friday.
Need something to wash down all that dough? The Domaine du Castel Winery visitor’s center is up the road from Kiryat Anavim, in Yad Hashmona, and their next-door neighbor is Hamatsesa, a local cider house. Stop in for a drink at either location or buy some bottles to bring home.
