A breath of fresh air: 5 invigorating nature walks to cure what ails you

For over a century, pine trees have been touted as a cure for tuberculosis. And perhaps they are — when our friend’s elderly mother was a child in Poland and contracted the disease, she was sent away to a pine forest and returned healthy enough to tell the tale.

But maybe her cure was just the result of the fresh air that filled her lungs.

In fact, the oxygen expelled by trees can be the answer to many a malaise, from fatigue to depression.

That’s why we’ve prepared this particular article for our readers, with suggestions for nature walks in fresh, sweet air that will hopefully lift your spirits when Israel’s coronavirus restrictions are lifted and travel is permitted once again.

Emek Tzurim (Tzurim Valley) National Park:

Located on Mount Scopus, below Brigham Young University. One to two hours circular and partially accessible.

In 1999, the Islamic trust known as the Waqf began removing tons of soil from the Temple Mount with little regard for the archeological riches within. Five years later, tourists and volunteers began sifting through much of the resulting debris in a structure located within Emek Tzurim National Park.

Declared a national park in the year 2000, Emek Tzurim is part of a green belt around Jerusalem’s Old City walls. And it is pure delight: 170 square meters (1,830 square feet) filled with olive and carob trees, dirt and stone walkways, fields of flowers, and stunning views of Jerusalem. In December, daffodils were in bloom; during a January visit, we enjoyed fields of yellow marigolds, some bi-colored vipers’ bugloss, a few blushing pink cyclamens, and three anemones just beginning to open.

A large sign clearly marks the entrance, found next to the Brigham Young parking lot and across from an observation point over the Judean Desert. From here, you descend steps into the park or take the ramp to enjoy its accessible lower portion and glorious views. Descending by stairs and ascending by ramp (or vice versa) turns this into a circular route.

Har Haruah (Wind Mountain)

Circular trail, 45 minutes to an hour. 

The Bible tells us that Dan was the seventh of the Israelite tribes to be assigned territory in the Land of Israel. Three of the towns in that region were Yitla, Shaalabim and Ayalon.

Experts have identified Yitla as a site on Wind Mountain, since the Arab village of Beit Tul, whose name is vaguely reminiscent of the word Yitla, stood there until 1948. No less important is the site’s proximity to two archeological hills: Tel Shaalabim and Tel Ayalon.

A lovely dirt trail on Wind Mountain, above the Yitla Valley, begins north of Neve Ilan. The trail is sprinkled with rocks, and is not accessible to strollers or wheelchairs but is otherwise easy going. When we were there in November the autumn crocus was in flower. A delicate light purple wildflower, it appears just after the first winter rains. Trees lined much of the path.

Along with flowers and abundant trees, there are several memorial sites along the trail. One monument is dedicated to two pilots — 29-year-old Erez Eitan and 26-year-old Yossi Gordon — whose Skyhawk plane crashed on Wind Mountain in 1980.

To get there, take Highway 1 to Hemed Junction, from there travel in the direction of Nataf on route 3975. Watch for a turnoff to Nahal Yitla and stop at a picnic ground dedicated to Hadassah and Baruch Levine. The trail begins there.

Boys’ Promenade, Etzion Bloc

Level, paved walk, 20 to 30 minutes each way.

In the summer of 2014, three teens were murdered by Hamas terrorists in the Etzion Bloc. The three — Eyal Ifrah, Naftali Fraenkel and Gil-ad Michael Shaer — are remembered at the Boys’ Promenade, located between the communities of Rosh Tzurim and Alon Shvut.

A totally different kind of walk, this journey begins at the Ezra Schwartz Lookout, named for an 18-year-old American boy murdered nearby in 2015. As you start the walk, audio guides called masbiranim tell the stories of all four teens, and stunning mosaics commemorate their young lives. We enjoyed this stroll in early January.

In Isaiah 5, the prophet speaks about agriculture in the hills of Judea: “He dug it up and cleared it of stones and planted it with the choicest vines.” The biblical method of growing crops on the hillside is called “terraced farming,” and during our walk we had an excellent view of an entire hillside filled with “terraces” like those in the Bible. Vineyards, dry in winter, lined the road. And to our surprise and delight, a gazelle hopped down the slopes right next to us.

During the first portion of the walk, there is a magical view of Beit Shemesh in the distance. At the point where the signs point straight ahead to Deerland, one of the region’s most popular attractions, the promenade turns left into an exceptionally lush forest with a scattering of picnic tables. You end at a main byway, where you turn around and retrace your steps back to your vehicle.

Before leaving the Gush Bloc do stop at the Lone Oak, a 700-year-old kermes oak that remained standing after the four settlements that made up the bloc in 1948 were razed to the ground by the Arab Legion. For the next 19 years, until the area was retaken during the Six Day War, it served as a symbol of the Gush for survivors to gaze at from afar.

On our latest visit, just before the third national lockdown began in early January, we found to our surprise that the Lone Oak was no longer alone. Along with an audio guide telling the story of the Gush, the site now features a stunning mosaic wall depicting attractions in the area, a large relief map, and restrooms. In a sign of the times, we watched in fascination as a teacher preparing a Zoom lesson for young pupils sang songs and told stories while walking back and forth next to the mosaic.

On our way back to the main highway we passed a field of marigolds. Their orange-yellow flowers created a charming roadside carpet.

Aircraft Trail on Mount Eitanim

Energizing circular walk, 45-60 minutes on a sometimes rocky trail.

It is no accident that two antennas were placed on the peak of Mount Eitanim. At 776 meters (2,546 feet) above sea level, this is the only notable height in the area, with a trail around the summit providing nature lovers fresh air and a set of views visible only from this viewpoint. Lining the trail are oak, lentisk terebinth, cypress, pine and strawberry trees with dark red trunks. Southern daisies were blooming when we took this outing in early January.

And why the name “aircraft” trail? On May 10th, 1948, a Norseman aircraft was sent out on a bombing raid. The plane crashed in this area, and both crew and aircraft were lost. A touching monument to the men killed in the catastrophe is found a five-minute drive away, on Tayasim, or Pilots, Hill.

To get there, drive up the mountain to the Eitanim Psychiatric Hospital and the two antennas, and look for a sign leading to the trail.

Beit Zayit Reservoir

Circular one-hour walk. Accessible paved walk above the reservoir (retrace steps to return); and a dirt trail closer to the water. As you approach the dam, you can scamper up the slopes, and return on the paved walk.

After a heavy rain, the Nahal Sorek stream in the Jerusalem Hills begins to flow and eventually empties into the Mediterranean Sea. In the 1950s, in an attempt to change the natural order of things, it was decided to create a dam in the riverbed and utilize the flood waters to enrich the aquifer.

This was a mistake, for instead of remaining underground, the river’s flood waters began flowing uselessly in the opposite direction: to the Dead Sea. But who cares? The reservoir that resulted from the dam — dry most of the year but gorgeous after a substantial winter shower — is a marvelous sight to behold. Located below the community of Beit Zayit, it is known, of course, as the Beit Zayit Reservoir.

We followed the promenade a couple of years ago in spring when the reservoir was full, and visited again during the three-week drought just before the latest lockdown. That’s how we learned that it doesn’t really matter when you visit — along the upper walkway are benches, overlooks, and an ancient burial cave, along with a plethora of trees such as hemp, dog rose, fig and pine. There is also a wide variety of seasonable flowers: In spring, among others, pink and white rockrose; in winter bell-shaped virgin’s bower and daffodils. Daffodils in Hebrew are called Narkissim, after the Greek mythical warrior Narcissus.

According to legend, Narcissus was so beautiful that he fell in love with himself and refused the advances of his many admirers. One day, he bent down to drink in a pool of water. As he tried to kiss his reflection it got smaller and smaller. He chased the reflection until he fell into the pool and drowned. Yellow and white daffodils — found all over the Jerusalem hills — sprouted in his place.

Drive to the reservoir from the roundabout below Beit Zayit, on highway 395. Construction is taking place, so try following the signs.

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For more directions or details on these walks contact us at israeltravels@gmail.com.

Aviva Bar-Am is the author of seven English-language guides to Israel.
Shmuel Bar-Am is a licensed tour guide who provides private, customized tours in Israel for individuals, families and small groups.