Food for thought

Bring a barley salad to the barbecue

Cook up the biblical grain harvested during the spring season

Phyllis Glazer is an American-born food journalist based in Tel Aviv, Israel. She is the author of several cookbooks that have been published in Hebrew, German, and Italian, and appears frequently on television and radio in Israel.

A stalk of wheat in a field (photo credit: Doron Horowitz/Flash 90)
A stalk of wheat in a field (photo credit: Doron Horowitz/Flash 90)

It’s been the season of winds, a time that once filled our ancestors with trepidation. As they were out reaping their barley in the mostly mild spring weather, there was always the possibility of sudden northern winds and rain that could destroy the fruit trees, or southern winds so swift and hot, the nearly ripe wheat would fly off the stalks, ruining an entire crop.

Believing the weather to be a matter of divine judgment, the farmers followed biblical laws for gathering their sheaves of barley. They religiously counted the Omer, the biblical term for a sheaf of wheat, and which also stood for the 49 days of counting between the pilgrimage festivals of Passover and Shavuot. The harvesting of barley began on Passover and ended with the wheat harvest at Shavuot, and farmers would bring offerings to the Temple in Jerusalem, in the hope that God would control those potentially injurious winds and dews, lest there would be famine in the year to come.

While barley played an integral part in the Omer period, culminating in the Shavuot story related in the Book of Ruth, which takes place in the barley fields, this pearl-shaped grain hasn’t gained much culinary expression in any traditional Jewish holiday dishes apart from Sabbath cholent. I’m promoting it for the upcoming Yom Ha’atzma’ut, Israel’s  Independence Day, and recommend saving the recipe for Shavuot as well.

The barley salad that follows is a truly delicious way to experience a grain most people assume has only one identity — in soup. Cubed avocado may also be added, or the salad may be served inside large avocado halves.

Barley Salad with Lemon and Coriander (serves 4-6)

  • 1 cup pearl barley
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup chopped (unpeeled) cucumber
  • ½-1 cup bean sprouts or sunflower sprouts, lightly chopped (optional)
  • ½ cup fresh mushrooms, sliced

Dressing

  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
  • 1 ½ teaspoon honey
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
  • ½ cup finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) or Italian flat leaf parsley
  • salt to taste
  1. Rinse the barley in several changes of water until the water runs clear. Drain well and place in a pot with the 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, partially cover and cook over low heat about 15-20 minutes, or until water is absorbed.
  2. Transfer to a wide colander and flake with a fork. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process, drain and cool. (May be prepared in advance, covered with plastic wrap and chilled.)
  3. Add the chopped cucumber, bean sprouts and sliced mushrooms.
  4. Prepare the dressing by whisking together all of the ingredients in the order listed and pour over the salad. (Or prepare dressing in advance and add the coriander or parsley just before serving. Save some of the dressing to refresh the salad before serving.)

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